Stage one
Centre to the swimming hole
Start on the Bega embankment near Piața Traian, where the river runs straight and grey beneath the concrete bridges. The path is asphalt here, shared with joggers and people walking dogs, so keep left and ring a bell if you have one. Within fifteen minutes the buildings thin out and you are riding between high grass and willow trees. The water turns a little greener, and on hot days you can smell it before you see it.
09:00
Hire a bike
Try the rental point near Piața Victoriei or a hotel that lends bicycles to guests. City bikes with upright bars are best for this flat route. Check the brakes and tyres before you set off; a slow puncture will ruin the return leg.
30 lei for half a day
09:30
Ride the embankment
Follow the Bega downstream, away from the city centre. The path is paved and signposted for cyclists and pedestrians. You pass under three road bridges and one railway bridge. Look for the old mill buildings on the far bank.
Free
10:00
First swim spot
Where the path bends left and the trees open up, there is a sandy patch and a slow eddy in the river. Local people swim here in summer. The bottom is muddy but safe if you stay close to the bank. No lifeguards.
Free
10:45
Drink by the water
A short ride further on brings you to a seasonal kiosk with plastic chairs under awnings. They sell cold beer, lemonade, and coffee from a machine. It is only open in warm months, roughly May to September.
8 lei for a beer
Stage two
Towards the city edge
Carry on past the kiosk and the path runs behind gardens and small warehouses. The surface is still paved but narrower, and you share it with the occasional moped. The river is wider here and the current is slower. On the right bank you can see the backs of factories and a few old villas with peeling paint.
11:30
The weir
A low concrete weir crosses the river about two kilometres before the edge of town. The water above it is calm enough for a second swim. Do not swim in the churning water below the weir; the undertow is strong. There is a grassy bank for leaving bikes and towels.
Free
12:15
Bridge with a view
Ride up onto the small road bridge if you want a photograph looking back towards the city. The path continues underneath along the left bank. This is the last bridge before the municipal boundary.
Free
12:45
Edge of town marker
The built-up area ends at a roundabout with a petrol station and a bus stop. This is the practical turnaround point for a half-day ride. There is a shop here for water and snacks.
Free
13:00
Turn back
Return the same way, but keep an eye out for the opposite bank. On the way out you may have missed a small wooden pier and a rowing club with a faded sign. It is worth a short detour.
Free
Stage three
Return leg and a last stop
The ride back to the centre takes about forty minutes at an easy pace. By now the sun is high and the path has less shade. If you started late, consider taking the tram back with your bike if the rules allow it, but check first because not all trams take bicycles. Most people simply ride back and stop once more for a cold drink.
13:45
Rowing club
On the return, pull in at the rowing club on the left bank. You can watch scullers and sometimes hire a boat if you have energy left. There is a tap for refilling water bottles. The club building is not always open.
Free to watch
14:30
Second swim
Back at the first swimming spot, if it is still hot, leave the bike on the grass and go in again. The water is warmest in late afternoon. Bring a small towel; there are no changing rooms.
Free
15:15
Cold drink in the centre
Ride back to the embankment near Piața Traian and lock the bike. There are several terraces along the river where you can sit under a parasol. A lemonade or a beer costs about the same as at the kiosk on the path.
10 lei for a lemonade
16:00
Return the bike
If you hired a bike, drop it back at the rental point. Check you have not left anything in the basket or panniers. Most rentals close around 18:00, so do not be late.
Free
Stage four
Variations and practicalities
This is not a single fixed route but a corridor. You can turn around at any point, and the path is easy enough to ride without a map. The notes below cover what to expect if you go further, or if you want to extend the ride. They also include the practical details that make the difference between a pleasant morning and a frustrating one.
Any time
Where it is paved
From the city centre to roughly the weir, the path is asphalt in good condition. After that, short sections are packed gravel, which is fine on a city bike but slow on narrow tyres. The very last stretch to the roundabout has some potholes.
Free
Any time
Bike hire options
There are a few rental shops in the centre, and some hotels lend bicycles to guests for a deposit. Expect to pay by the half day or full day. Bring your own lock if you plan to leave the bike while swimming.
30–60 lei per day
Any time
Safety and water
The Bega is not a swimming pool. There are no lifeguards. Do not dive in; the depth is variable. After heavy rain the current picks up and the water turns brown — skip the swim. Carry at least one litre of water per person.
Free
Any time
Going further
If you continue past the edge of town, the path becomes less continuous and you end up on quiet roads. It is possible to ride towards the Serbian border, but that is a full-day trip. For a half-day, the roundabout is the sensible limit.
Free
What three days cost, per person
Bike hire (half day)
30 lei
Beer or lemonade at kiosk
8–10 lei
Coffee in centre
7 lei
Water and snacks
15 lei
Swim stops
Free
Two people sharing a €55 double, eating where locals eat, one theatre ticket each. September 2026.