Hiking in Caraș-Severin Hills

The Caraș-Severin hills start where the Banat plain ends, about 100 km southeast of Timișoara. Most walkers aim for two bases: Semenic in the north and Cheile Nerei in the south. Public transport is sparse but workable if you start early. The train to Oravița takes two and a half hours from Timișoara Nord; from there a few buses reach Anina and the Nera valley. For Semenic, take a train to Reșița or Caransebeș, then a local bus toward Văliug or Semenic. None of this is frequent. Check times the day before at the station, not online.

This is the classic leg of the Nera gorge. The path follows the river through limestone walls, with several sections of boardwalk and a few short tunnels. It is not technical, but it is long: six to eight hours depending on pace and how often you stop. The most famous sight is Ochiul Beiului, a small turquoise lake fed by a karst spring. Beyond it, the gorge narrows and the trail cuts through rock. You end at Sasca Montană, a village with a few guesthouses. Book ahead in summer; there is not much beds.

If you have a half-day before leaving, the marked loop above Sasca Montană is a good leg-stretcher. It climbs to a viewpoint over the Nera valley and returns through oak woods. Otherwise, use the morning to walk the village and arrange transport out. Buses to Oravița leave once or twice a day; check the time locally. The nearest train back to Timișoara is from Oravița, so plan to arrive there by late afternoon.

For a different flavour, head north to the Semenic Mountains. The starting point is the village of Văliug, reached by bus from Reșița or Caransebeș. From Văliug, a marked trail climbs through beech forest to the Semenic chalet at 1,400 m. The walk takes four to five hours at a steady pace. The trail is well marked with red and white stripes. In winter it is a ski area, but from spring to autumn it is quiet. The chalet has basic food and beds, but it is often full at weekends; bring a tent as backup.

The ridge above the chalet gives a full day of walking without technical difficulty. You can follow the main crest for several hours, then drop down to a different village. The most practical descent is to Văliug via a different path, making a loop. Alternatively, walk north toward Reșița and catch a bus from the road. The terrain is open pasture and dwarf pine, with long views into Serbia on clear days. Navigation is easy in good weather but the path fades in mist; carry a map and compass.

The hills are modest but the weather changes fast. You need sturdy boots, a waterproof jacket and a warm layer even in July. Trails are marked but not always cleared; a small saw or secateurs are not necessary, but long trousers help against nettles and ticks. Water is available from springs and village taps, but carry a filter or purification tablets for the karst areas. The best months are May, June and September. July and August are hot and busy at weekends. April can still see snow on Semenic. October is quiet and colourful but days are short.

What three days cost, per person

Return train Timișoara–Oravița 50–80 lei Bus fares (Oravița–Anina, Sasca–Oravița) 20–25 lei Guesthouse per night 120–180 lei Semenic chalet bed 80–120 lei Food and supplies 50–80 lei per day Reserve entry (Ochiul Beiului) 10 lei Two people sharing a €55 double, eating where locals eat, one theatre ticket each. September 2026.